Using Diskpart for a Bootable USB

Q: How many systems come with CD or DVD drives these days?

A: Close to nil.

If you need to create a bootable USB drive, Diskpart can get the job done for you. You can then dump whatever it is you need to run onto the remainder of the free space.

1. Open a Cmd window as Administrator
2. Run diskpart
3. Type list disk, this will show which one is your USB drive
4. Type select disk # where # is the USB drive from Step 3
5. Type clean, hit enter
6. Type create part pri + enter, then select part 1 + enter
7. Type format fs=ntfs quick + enter (for UEFI systems, use format fs=fat32 quick)
8. Type active + enter, then exit.
9. Optional: Copy your files onto the USB drive, i.e. the contents of an ISO

Someone is currently logged into the APC

Time was APC was the Cadillac of the power management world. But in my opinion, as with many vendors they're not keeping up with the times. Case in point our APC AP7990 PDUs. We're no longer able to use any modern browser to manage them. And when we use an older browser, we've been getting "Someone is currently logged into the APC Management Web Server." when attempting to login, because it's not resetting the session when disconnecting.

Logging into the terminal and back out to reset the web interface fixes this, but if you're doing that securely as you should with SSH, not Telnet, using PuTTY, you get an error message "Received SSH2_MSG_CHANNEL_SUCCESS for nonexistent channel 65536". To get around that try using a Linux or BSD-based system to SSH to the PDU, although that resulted in a "Broken pipe" error at times...

Unfortunately the heart of the matter is their products, like many manufactures' devices are using old, broken security protocols, ciphers and versions of Java, with no hope of ever being updated. And now with all modern browsers and JVM security settings at all-time high, they block access to these remote management web interfaces. Truly a frustrating development since there is no way to push manufacturers to update what should amount to a simple fix (if they have sensible software dev practices). I don't expect companies to support products forever the way Microsoft does, but when their products become completely unmanageable because of far-reaching, widely-known security flaws in Bash, OpenSSH, SSL and Java, they should be on the hook to spend a few cycles on helping the people who buy their products. (Okay, off my soapbox.)

And by all means, click Log Off when using the APC PDU web interface.

Dell Server Parts

Recently a customer's Dell PowerEdge T105 blew out its power supply. Too bad the three-year warranty ended just four months ago.

What to do? Call Dell with credit card in hand...and proceed with being transferred all over because you're out of warranty. Normally I'm very happy with Dell support, but I guess you're treated well when you are still in warranty.

Where else can you go when you need parts and they've stopped making them or cost too much from Dell? You can go with eBay and take your chances, or go to either Server Supply or Velocity Tech Solutions. You can even get real warranties on the parts.

Removing the U3 Partition from a Flash Drive

I find most extra software bundled with hardware unnecessary and usually annoying; U3 luckily is both.

After attempts to format, fdisk /mbr, diskpart clean, etc. all failed. I did some poking around and found the uninstaller is bundled with the startup app, clever...

1. Insert your U3 flash drive  and Launch the U3 application.


2. Click on the U3 Launchpad Settings


3. Click the Uninstall tab on the Settings menu (all windows and files accessed from the flash drive must be closed).


4. Finally, click Uninstall U3 Launchpad

That's it, no more pop-ups and annoying software.

Resetting a Verizon MiFi 2200

A recently returned Verizon MiFi 2200 was found to have been reset by the user, with now-forgotten settings. Luckily the reset is easy...

1. Power on the MiFi (if it isn't already).


2. Take off the back cover and depress the reset button with a paperclip or similar (look for a hole labelled RESET in one of the corners).


3. Hold the button in until the status LED turns green, then blinks once (this can take up to ten seconds).


4. Let it go and then you'll find the SSID listed on the back in your available wireless networks (typically Verizon MIFI4510L XXXX).

Dell Latitude Unknown Data Interface Driver

Installing a system from scratch can be a bear when it comes to finding device drivers, especially when the device in question doesn't have a manufacturer, model or even name associated with it. The latest install in which I had to deal with this was a Dell Latitude D430, but this device seems common to other D-Series Latitudes like the D620.

It's listed in the Device Manager simply as Data Interface with the typical unknown icon, and there were two of them. Digging further into the details of the device yielded the Hardware ID values below.

USB\VID_413C&PID_8114&MI_00\7&24B185B&0&0000
USB\VID_413C&PID_8114&MI_01\7&24B185B&0&0001

Turns out these are for the Verizon cellular modem card and drivers are readily available from Dell, under Technical Support, with your trusty Service Tag. I found the Verizon WWAN Card driver under the Communications heading (as VZW Mobile Broadband).

Cisco ASA 5505 Initial Configuration Commands

One thing I can say about the Startup Wizard in the Cisco ASA 5505, is that it would be kicked out of Hogwarts. Lame joke sure, but so is Cisco for selling something so complex to small businesses. What my customer of eight employees needs is a firewall with the robust dependability of a Cisco PIX with the simplicity of a Linksys. Seems like a no brainer, but since the 2003 purchase, I don't think Cisco hasn't done anything even close. Enough of my rant...

Some of the Startup Wizard went okay (like changing the external IP and enable password only), but when it came to changing the inside network, it hung a number of times, once for over 30 minutes, before I turned it off. Turned out I needed to actually change the internal IP address via the command line, but not before wiping out DHCP, because that locks the internal subnet from being changed. Oh yeah, don't forget to change the subnet from which you can access the internal web server, otherwise you're locked out of that as well. And yes, I attempted to do this via the ASDM, but it hung every time I tried to change the internal IP address. Sorry, I guess my ranting wasn't done.

Below are the commands I used to complete the above tasks...

Note: All of these require you to be logged into the "enable" account, i.e. type enable at the command-line in your terminal window and enter the password

Turn DHCP off:
ciscoasa# config term
ciscoasa(config)# no dhcpd enable inside

Updating your internal IP address/subnet (assuming it's VLAN 1)
ciscoasa# config term
ciscoasa(config)# interface Vlan 1
ciscoasa(config-if)# ip address 10.0.1.1 255.255.255.0
ciscoasa(config-if)# no shut

Adding an outside route (your gateway address (and why isn't this in the wizard?!?!))
ciscoasa# config term
ciscoasa(config)# route outside 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 76.176.56.86 1

Update access to the ADSM (so you can reach it from your new network listed above)
ciscoasa# config term
ciscoasa(config)# http 10.0.1.0 255.255.255.0 inside
ciscoasa(config)# exit
ciscoasa# show run | include http
http 10.0.1.0 255.255.255.0 inside (this shows your new network has access)
http 192.168.1.0 255.255.255.0 inside

Turn on DHCP and configure for use
ciscoasa# config term
ciscoasa(config)# dhcpd address 10.0.1.201-10.0.1.240 inside
ciscoasa(config)# dhcpd dns 10.0.1.10 10.0.1.11
ciscoasa(config)# dhcpd wins 10.0.1.10
ciscoasa(config)# dhcpd lease 3000
ciscoasa(config)# dhcpd domain contoso.com
ciscoasa(config)# dhcpd enable inside

Write running config to flash (saving all of your changes)
ciscoasa# write memory

Restarting your Cisco ASA from command line
ciscoasa# reload noconfirm

Should you post any questions, I'll be happy to try and help, but I can't promise anything...

Optimize Windows Settings for SSD

So you got a shiny new SSD for your Windows system. As you may or may not know, there is only a finite number of writes to each sector before it becomes unusable, eventually causing the disk to be unusable.

So what can you go to make sure it lasts as long as it can? I've gathered a few tips from around the web to help.

• Go without a pagefile (if you have at least 2GB of RAM)


• Disable automatic disk defragmentation (only Vista and Win 7)


• Turn off hibernation


• Put a halt to prefetching


• If this is a system with two drives move the location of your Temp directory path (and move the pagefile rather than disabling it as above).

Versions after Windows XP actually do make some changes to optimize, but it doesn't hurt to check. And have fun with your new found (or bought) speed!

Cisco ASA 5505 Software Upgrade

So you're looking to upgrade your Cisco ASA 5505 to the latest and greatest firmware? Well take it from me, don't update the ASA software first. If the ASDM software is not compatible with the updated ASA version, you will get locked out and have to get out your console cable.

Not so bad, but if your server room is actually a storage closet with the rack eight feet in the air so you have to stand crooked on a ladder, it's a pain in the back (and a lower, rear facing location as well).

The upgrade process is in fact, quite painless.

1. Just fire up your ASDM


2. Go to Tools > Upload Software from Local Computer...


3. Choose your Image to Upload: (ADSM first, then ASA later)


4. Browse Local Files... to add the image (.bin file)


5. Click Upload Image and follow the prompts to finish (they vary depending on image uploaded)

Following the process above for our brand new firewall, the ASDM image reloaded properly to the latest version while the device was running, the ASA software however, did not. Rebooting the ASA loaded everything properly and I was on my way. (Or was I? That's blog entry to come...)

Disable Prius Beeping when in Reverse

If you have a Prius, there's a good chance you are annoyed by the constant beeping when you put the car in reverse. I can understand if it's heard outside the car, since it's almost completely silent when in electric mode, but it only alerts the passengers in the vehicle. Since selling my Corvette, I've been driving my wife's Prius a lot and the beeping was beginning to really grate on me...

After a few searches, here's what I found (read the steps once before attempting, some of them are time dependent).

1. Start the car with your foot on the brake as usual.


2. Press the ODO button until "ODO" appears on the dash display. (If it's already present, cycle around once to display it again.)


3. Turn the car off.


4. Again with your foot on the brake, press POWER to restart your Prius.


5. Within 6 seconds of starting, press and hold the ODO button for 10 seconds and don't release it.


6. You're still holding the ODO button after 10 seconds, right? Now shift the car into Reverse and quickly press the Park button. You may now release the ODO button.


7. The odometer display should now show "b on" (if not, start over).


8. Press the ODO button until the display shows "b off."


9. Turn the car off by pressing the POWER button.


10. Start your Prius now, put it reverse and enjoy the silence.

Note: This is supposed to work only with US models, so if you're abroad it's up to the kindness of your dealer. And I've only tested this on a 2009 Prius, so your mileage may vary :)

So how much does my Nook weigh?

I knew it! Every time I put content on my Nook Color it becomes heavier and heavier. I already have 4GB of data on it and the extra .000000000000000001 grams is killing me. (It weighs 15.8 ounces, before adding all that heavy content.)

And this is precisely why I have an eReader. The Nook Color allows me to carry a whole library of IT titles as well as works from every spectrum of printed media, without braking my back or ruining my gas mileage (a former colleague carried about fifteen fat UNIX books in the back of his car everywhere).

I'm not saying that the Nook Color is the best choice, but when I bought mine, it was the only color, non-iPad choice at (or under) $250 that was worth anything. Given a choice today, it would be the Kindle Fire, although Barnes & Noble does have an announcement pending... (Maybe my wife would like a slightly used and loaded Nook Color, it's not very heavy.)

Pandigital Novel

I must say I didn't have the highest hopes for the Pandigital Novel eReader at $149, but I at least expected it to function for reading.

The out of the box experience was fine. Everything worked and the device's battery was charged to 97%. It detected my wireless and authenticated effortlessly, no issues with connecting with my Windows 7 laptop, upgrading to the latest firmware or copying epub and pdf files to the file system, which showed up like another drive.

The browser was lackluster and the device settings were limited, but all I really wanted was a device that I could use for reading. It displayed my files correctly and the night-time reading mode was pleasant, since it shows the text in negative (great for reading in bed with the lights out). And this is where I was mostly disappointed...

My problems were the accelerometer, which kept changing from portrait to landscape when at a mild angle or slight turning motion and the less than sensitive touch-screen. I was slowly adjusting to the auto-rotation "feature" by moving the device as little as possible, but the touch screen is what killed it for me. Turning pages can only be accomplished via the touch screen, which took two to five "swipes" each time; which of course takes you out of the material you're reading and involves far more movement than a light-sleeping spouse would prefer.

Two things on the settings screen would have kept this device in my home: a checkbox to turn off the auto-rotation and the ability to remap the analog rocker switch (the only switch aside from the power) to page turning instead of adjusting the volume (which was available via the touch screen).

I returned the device to Best Buy yesterday and will be likely be purchasing a NOOKcolor in the coming weeks.

Eee PC 2.00 GB (767 MB usable)

Today there was a curious case where someone's Windows 7 Eee PC had 2 GB of RAM, which the operating system was aware of, but only listed as 767 MB available for use.

It turns out that if the Boot Booster is enabled in the BIOS, it limits the amount of usable RAM. To fix this, press F2 during boot-up, go to the Boot menu, use the arrow keys to highlight Boot Booster and press Enter to change it to Disabled. Next press F10 to save, then reboot and you are done.

Note: You may still only have 1.75 GB usable, but that can be blamed on the leeching onboard video.

What's in my backpack?

Every time I'm heading out the door, I throw a heavy backpack over my shoulder and drop it into my car with a thud.

What's in this bag I lug around to each client? Of course there's my HP tc4400 Tablet PC and battery charger, but there's a whole lot more, in no particular order:

• Small TechNet binder (Contents will be another post).


• An assortment of small screwdrivers for laptops and PCs alike


• Cables: 7' Ethernet, Cisco serial, USB to PS2 converter, USB to serial, iPhone charger


• 160 external hard drive, USB (for moving files and dumping images)


• Leatherman


• A small handful of unlabeled customer access badges and keys


• Three USB thumbdrives (1GB, 2GB (BitLockered) and 32GB)


• Small metal business card holder


• Sharpie and blue pen


• Tape measure

HP tc4400 and Windows 7 Boot Failure

I've been using an HP tc4400 Tablet PC with Windows Vista for quite some time now and thought it was about time I started using Windows 7 for work and not just home.

Don't get me wrong, I do like Vista (I think I may be only one of eight people), but as an IT professional I should be using the latest operating system.

So I got started with swapping out the hard drive to start with a fresh install (always the best way to go), and tossed in the install DVD. The install went flawlessly and I followed with Windows Update, as one always should. Upon rebooting the system, it failed to start.

What followed was a large pain in the posterior: After attempting to do a System Restore (it failed, of course), I reinstalled. This time during Windows Update, I deselected some of the likely updates that may have caused the boot failure issue, same result. This process went on five times before I found the (in)correct update:Intel Corp - Display - Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family 16.6MB. Not surprising that it's a video driver, since those are typically the drivers that will hose a Windows system most often (rather embarrassed it took five tries to find out the obvious). Anyway, the update was released in September, 2009 and is one version behind what is available on the Intel website.

Once I skipped the Windows Update version of the driver and installed latest display driver from Intel, I was in business, actually Windows 7 Professional (can't MS marketing decide on a consistent nomenclature?).

Network Printer Offline

Yesterday I was at a client site where everyone prints directly to the printers, rather than sharing via a print server. One of the PCs kept showing a printer as offline, even though everyone else was printing to it. From the PC you could ping the printer and even browse to the builtin web server to see that it was low on cyan.

After chewing on this for quite a while, I found the issue: a checkbox on the Ports tab "SNMP Status Enabled", which when checked (along with SNMP turned off on the print device) will result in the printer being listed as Offline. Once the box was unchecked, it was back online and the customer was back to printing once again.

Omnibook BIOS Reset

A good friend gave me an old HP Omnibook of his, which was used by a former employee and he hadn't used it in well over a year. It turned out to have a BIOS password, which he didn't know.

I thought I was in for some laptop disassembly to remove the CMOS battery or change a jumper; perhaps even worse, to send it back to a repair depot for reset; but it was amazingly easy. 

All that had to be done was hold down the insert key while the system was booting to reset the BIOS back to default. Okay, I had to do this three times before it worked, but it worked.

Although I was relieved to be done with this in just a minute or two, making it this easy to do a reset completely invalidates the security afforded by having a BIOS password in the first place.

Anyhow, it is now happily running Fedora 11; which BTW required 515 updates for 1.6GB (and people complain about Windows updates).

Now I'm part of the iCrowd

I finally caved and bought an iPhone. The tipping point was that my Verizon contract was up and I could save about $25/month by going to AT&T. (A friend of a friend is the store manager.)

It also helped that the iPhone 3Gs came out, offered a mature OS with a landscape keyboard and the big surprise, cut and paste.

I must say I'm rather enjoying the new phone; finding new Apps is rather addictive. The interface is pleasing and mostly intuitive, iPod functions are nicely done and most importantly, ActiveSync with Exchange works quite well.

I was rather dubious of the AT&T network, but so far so good.

More on being in the "iCrowd" later...

Samsung Locked!

I haven't seen this before, but it was an easy fix.

My customer's Samsung LCD monitor was off center, but when he tried to use the Auto adjust feature or manually change the screen position, the menu always showed "Locked!"

A quick search showed that all that needed to be done was to hold the Menu button down for five seconds to unlock it. Adjustments were then made and all was right again in the world (at least in a world that only contains one Samsung LCD monitor and nothing else).

Laptop Power

This is an interesting breakdown on laptop power consumption from the Windows Tips and Tricks UPDATE newsletter:

Q. What uses the most battery power on my laptop?
John Savill

A. The LCD display. In fact, almost half the power in most laptops is used by the screen, which is why dimming your screen can save you a lot of battery life. Below is a list of the major power consumers on your laptop. This list also applies to desktop computers, other than the screen figure.

LCD: 43%
Chipset: 21%
Processor: 9%
Graphics: 8%
Hard Drive: 5%
Network: 4%
Other bits: 10%

Obviously different systems will vary based on their components, but this gives a rough idea of where that battery power goes.